The Transylvanian Trail, Romania
Our host for this ride is Count Kalnoky who is the 25th direct descendant of a dynasty stretching back to the obscure middle ages. Around 5-6 hours are spent in the saddle daily and a variety of terrain is traversed as you travel through wild hills and forest landscapes. The villages are situated at 450-700 m, the hills reach 700-900 m. This whole region is called Erdovidék, or “Woodlands”, and hasn’t changed much in the last two millennia!
Country: Romania
Getting there: London to Bucharest, direct flight.
Terrain: Cross country: open parkland; mountain foothills; forest rides. Some stream crossings. No fences or wired boundaries, ideal for cross country riding.
Pace: 30% walk; 70% trot and canter.
Horse Breed: Lipizzaner; Lipizzaner / Hutzul cross; Shagya Arabian (14.2 hh to 15.2 hh).
The Lipizzaner traces it’s origins to about 1550. It is so famous because it is the horse of the Spanish Riding School in Vienna: big solid greys capable of great things! The Hutzul comes from the Carpathian mountains in Romania and is a tough, resilient breed. The Shagya is part of the Arab group and was developed as a cavalry mount for the Hungarian army. It tends to be more substantial than the Arab and slightly larger (15 hh).
Tack: English.
Rider’s involvement: The rider can unsaddle the horse during breaks & at the end of the day. Guides also available to advise and assist. Looking after horses is the guide’s responsibility.
Rider’s weight: 90 kg
Best season for ride: From April till mid October.
Day-by-day Itinerary
Day 1 (Sunday) Fly London to Bucharest
Met upon arrival and transfer to Sfantu Gheorghe (3 hrs) in central Romania, where our guide welcomes us and briefs us on the ride to come. Dinner and o/n in Miklosvar guesthouse. D.
Day 2 (Monday)
Transfer to the stables at Valea Crisului (“Round Brook”) 25km from Miklosvar. Match horse to rider and the trail starts by climbing slowly northwards onto a ridge. Ride across high pastures with magnificent views of the Carpathian Mountains. Descend through the forest to reach the tiny and isolated village of Zalanpatak, where we stay for the night as guests in a rather special place, owned by HRH The Prince of Wales! This is his Transylvanian nature retreat. This property has been restored by Count Kalnokys and is located at the foot of a hill just outside the village, surrounded by wild flower meadows, creeks and woods. Saddle time: 4 hours. FB.
Day 3 (Tuesday)
This morning we continue in a north-easterly direction deep into the forests of the Hatod region where 6 villages share the same woods (hatod = “one sixth”). Following quiet forest tracks alongside of which, even in 21st century, bear tracks are visible. The trail continues around the extinct volcano “Murgo” and descends on gentle grassy slopes to the two Batanii villages (“Big Bacon and Little Bacon”) where we stay in village houses in the lovely “Little Bacon”. We dine together. There will be the chance to explore the still functioning watermill and traditional looms in the evening. Saddle time: 5 hours. FB.
Day 4 (Wednesday)
We ride through forests and hay meadows to reach the hill Szép Arca (“Pretty Face”) on the southern slopes of the Hargita Range. Wide views open out on the distant Barót and Olt Valley. We descend into the Kormos (“Sooty”) valley, where Romania’s ex-Dictator Ceausescu had his private hunting villa. The river is teeming with trout, the wet meadows have beautiful wild flowers.
Ceausescu’s villa is now the ‘Kormos’ lodge where we overnight and have dinner. Saddle time: 4 hours. FB.
Day 5 (Thursday)
We turn south along the Kormos Valley riding across the lower slopes of the hills, passing the village of Filia (“Forest’s Ear”) over fenceless hay meadows. We continue along the slopes, with many a chance of cantering, into the valley of the river Olt to reach Miklósvár, and our guesthouse. Saddle time: 6 hours. FB.
Day 6 (Friday)
From Miklósvár, we return to Koröspatak crossing low hills and brooks. This part of the region is particularly rich in game because there are no roads. Koröspatak is the end of the trail and from here we transfer back to Miklósvár and overnight in the guesthouse. Saddle time: 6 hours. FB.
Day 7 (Saturday)
Depart after breakfast and drive back to the airport for the London flight.
Accommodation (Based on twin share; single occupancy option is available.)
Guesthouse x 4 night
HRH’s lodge x 1 night
Village house x 1 night
Distance from urban areas: The nearest town to Miklósvár is Barót, the distance between is 15 km. The nearest town to Koröspatak is Sepsiszentgyörgy, the distance between is 10 km. In both towns there is a hospital with emergency room.
Cross-cultural awareness: The regions that we pass have a mixed population of Catholic , Calvinistic, and Orthodox people living peacefully with each other.
Guides: A Romanian English-speaking guide accompanies the group throughout.